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Feast Mode

a moveable feast blog

Epic Pumpkin Bread

10/4/2018

9 Comments

 
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"Only the knife knows what goes on in the heart of a pumpkin."
-Simone Schwarz-Bart


It's here. October. My favorite month of the year. The month where the BF hangs on for dear life, as I vortex all things pumpkin. [Ed. note: I'm worried about you, man. Seriously.] Pumpkin items I adore: bread, muffins, donuts, cakes, cookies, popovers (coming soon to the blog), ice cream, mousse, cheesecake, soups, curries, pancakes, french toast, scones, cinnamon rolls, trifle and candles. Lots and lots of candles.

Most unnecessary pumpkin-spice products that I've seen? Pringles, vodka, body lotion, kale chips,  salsa, salmon and bagels (the BF had a bite and requested that I never, ever, pinkie-swear-on-penalty-of-death buy that again). [Ed. note: Can confirm.]

Side note: The Huffington Post "reports that their taste testers were struck with a variety of reactions to Pringles’ new line of potato chips, ranging from 'surprisingly not revolted' to a 'horrible abomination to humanity.'"

​October is also the month to make a mean pumpkin lasagna, crispy pumpkin and sage cannelloni (coming to the blog close to Thanksgiving) and pumpkin gnocchi. Seriously, I feel like there are not enough days in October for everything I want to make with pumpkin. [Ed. note: So this is why you were pining for them in February.]​
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This pumpkin bread is moist, tender and plush on the inside, with a sumptuous cinnamon-sugar craggy lid. One of my biggest pet peeves when baking pumpkin bread are the recipes that use 1 cup of pumpkin puree out of a can that holds 1 ¾ cup. That leftover puree drives me bat-shit crazy. [Ed. note: Can confirm.]​ Fear not, this recipe utilizes every last drop of that canned pumpkin and it only takes one bowl to make.

Very key here is the size of your loaf pan, as this will fill out every inch of it. Mine holds 6 liquid cups; it’s 8 × 4 inches on the bottom and 9 × 5 inches on the top. If yours is even slightly smaller or you’re nervous, go ahead and scoop out a little to make a muffin or two.  
​
Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen says, "Finally, I know someone is going to say 'that’s way too much sugar!' but please keep in mind this loaf is gigantic, easily 1.5x a normal one and the sugar is scaled accordingly. You can decrease it if you wish but we have made this now several times and many people have commented about how in-check the sugar level tastes, not over the top at all."

PS: Can't forget last year's pumpkin challah (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/pumpkin-challah), and mini pumpkin whoopie pies with apple cider filling (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/mini-pumpkin-whoopie-pies-with-apple-cider-cream-cheese-filling), which were client and reader favorites.
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Adapted from: Smitten Kitchen
Number of servings: 8-10

Ingredients
Bread
  • 1 15-ounce can (1 ¾ cups) pumpkin puree
  • ½ cup (120 ml) vegetable or another neutral cooking oil or melted butter (115 grams) 
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 ⅔ cups (330 grams) granulated sugar
  • 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
  • ¾ teaspoon baking soda
  • ¾ teaspoon fine sea or table salt
  • ¾  teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Heaped ¼ teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg
  • Heaped ¼ teaspoon ground ginger
  • Two pinches of ground cloves
  • 2 ¼ cups (295 grams) all-purpose flour
Topping
  • 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Directions
  1. Heat oven to 350 °F. Butter a 6-cup loaf pan or coat it with nonstick spray.
  2. In a large bowl, whisk together pumpkin, oil, eggs and sugar until smooth. Sprinkle baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and cloves over batter. Whisk until well-combined. Add flour and stir with a spoon, until just mixed.
  3. Scrape into prepared pan and smooth the top. In a small dish or empty measuring cup, stir sugar and cinnamon together. Sprinkle over top of batter.
  4. Bake bread for 65-75 minutes until a tester poked into all parts of cake (both the top and center will want to hide pockets of uncooked batter) come out batter-free, turning the cake once during the baking time for even coloring.
  5. You can cool it in the pan for 10 minutes and then remove it, or cool it completely in there. The latter provides the advantage of letting more of the loose cinnamon sugar on top adhere before being knocked off.
  6. Cake keeps at room temperature as long as you can hide it. I like to keep mine in the tin with a piece of foil or plastic just over the cut end and the top exposed, to best keep the lid crisp as long as possible.
9 Comments

Pumpkin Challah

10/11/2017

2 Comments

 
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​Because I ain't no Challahback Girl, I ain't no Challahback Girl!
 
Sorry, couldn't get Gwen Stefani's "Hollaback Girl" out of my head while making this pumpkin challah. No Doubt fans will understand.

I don't make homemade bread too often, as there are many extraordinary bakeries around me that offer all manner of amazing confections. But it was so worth making this particular bread at home. The aroma alone was intoxicating, and I've never seen pumpkin challah at any bakery.
​
Disclaimer: my BF is a writer-music-journalist and is meticulous with grammar, so he hates when I use too many !!!!!! [Ed. note: I'm letting this slide, but will need to see you after class.] But people, I mean, look at this challah! Oh my beloved October!

Pumpkin and challah is a divine combination. The inside is a gorgeous saffron yellow, the crust is laquered, and the bread itself is soft and has an ever so slight taste of pumpkin. You can taste it, but it doesn't overwhelm. 

There is, however, much down time, and you can do other things while the bread is rising and baking. ​When fully baked this loaf of bread is hefty, the BF and I feasted on this loaf of love for a week (we've made deli sandwiches, grilled cheese, french toast, bread pudding, croutons and eaten it plain, slicked with honey butter or cranberry butter—my favorite).
​
If you're invited to a dinner party or perhaps a holiday dinner, and the host asks you to bring the carbs, consider bringing this gem of a challah. Bet you're asked to bring it the following year.
​
Adapted from: The Bojon Gourmet, Smitten Kitchen and Joan Nathan
Number of servings: Makes 1 large loaf

According to Joan Nathan, the secrets to good challah are simple: use two coats of egg wash to get that laquer-like crust, and don't overbake it. Also, three risings always makes for the tastiest loaves.
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Ingredients
  • 1 tablespoon rapid-rise yeast, or 5 teaspoons active dry, or 3 tablespoons fresh (I used active dry)
  • ½ cup luke-warm water
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) pumpkin puree
  • 3 eggs, plus 1 for brushing the bread
  • 4 ounces (8 tablespoons) butter, melted and cooled
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • about 5 cups all-purpose or bread flour (I used bread flour)
  • optional: 1 tablespoon poppy or sesame seeds, for sprinkling

Directions
  1. In a large bowl, whisk together the yeast, water, pumpkin, eggs, butter, sugar and salt. (If using active dry yeast, sprinkle yeast over water and let stand 5-10 minutes, until foamy, before adding the other ingredients.) Stir in the flour, a cup at a time, until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth. Add just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to your hands and the surface, until the dough feels smooth and springy. Place in a lightly oiled bowl or container, cover with a lid or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours. I placed my dough in an oven that had been warmed to 150 °F and then turned off.  After 2 hours, punch down dough, cover and let rise again in a warm place for 30 minutes.
  2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gently press out the air bubbles. Divide the dough into 3 equal portions. Tuck the edges under to form loose rounds. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a large plastic bag and let them rest for 10 minutes to relax the glutens and make them easier to shape.
  3. Roll them into approximately 14-inch ropes. Connect the ropes at the far end, with the loose ends closest to you and then tightly braid (on my first attempt I braided mine a little too loose). Pinch the ends together and tuck them under the loaf.
  4. Now lift the loaf onto a parchmented baking sheet, put the whole thing in a large plastic bag, and let rise for about 30 minutes.
  5. Preheat the oven to 400 ºF with a shelf on the lowest rack. Brush the loaf with the beaten egg, and let rise another 15 minutes in the bag. Brush the loaf a second time, return to the bag, and let rise another 15 minutes or so. The bread should roughly double in size, and should hold the indentation of your finger when pressed lightly. (Optionally sprinkle the top with poppy or sesame seeds.)
  6. Place the loaf in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 325 ºF and bake for another 20 minutes. Rotate the loaf, and bake another 10-15 minutes, for a total baking time of 40-55 minutes. The bread should be a rich brown, sound hollow when thumped on the underside, and an instant read thermometer should register at least 190 ºF when inserted in the center.
  7. Remove the pan from the oven. Cool loaf on a rack for 1-2 hours.
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2 Comments
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    I'm Jacquie, personal chef & recipe developer in the beautiful Pacific Northwest. ​Living life with my wildly funny boyfriend and dog Marlowe. Lover of books, bourbon, chocolate and movies.​

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